This weekend, I ventured out of Sevilla for the first time to the nearby city of Granada. Granada (which I learned means 'pomegranate' in Spanish) is about a 3 hour drive from Sevilla. Granada is located at the foot of the snowy Sierra Nevada mountains, which can be seen from the city. It was the final city to be recaptured from Moorish rule by Ferdinand and Isabel, "Los Reyes Católicos". We packed a lot of activity into the short 27-or-so hours we spent in Granada, so this post will be a long one!
LA ALHAMBRA
The main attraction in Granada is La Alhambra, a Moorish fortress, palace, and gardens that sit atop a hill in the city. Some of the property was destroyed or altered during La Reconquista (the reconquest of Spain by the Catholics), but it is very well-preserved. The grounds is divided into two parts. The first is " El Generalife", an area of gardens and relaxation. At this time of year, the weather in Granada is fairly cold, so the gardens were not in full bloom. I can only imagine how beautiful they will look in a few months!
Slightly lower on the hill lies the rest of La Alhambra. It is broken into areas that served as soldiers' quarters, royal palaces, patios and courtyards, and halls for the reception of guests. The entire complex is a great example of Muslim architecture and decoration. The tile work throughout La Alhambra is exquisite, and was one of my favorite aspects of the site. The tiles are very colorful and are decorated in the symmetrical patterns typical of Muslim art. The stonework on the walls and ceilings is also incredibly intricate. Some small traces of the original coloring on the walls remains, but, for the most part, the color has faded over time. I tried to picture how the rooms would have looked in their original state, and it must have been so impressive to see it in its full color and decoration.
La Alhambra is a beautiful and unique place, and I can see why it is one of the most visited sites in Spain.
NIGHTLIFE & TAPAS
Like in most Spanish cities, tapas and nightlife are very important parts of Granada. Tapas are like a type of appetizer, and a group will order a number of different tapas and share them with each other at the table. The word tapas comes from the Spanish word "tapar", which means "to cover". Tapas originated when bar owners would use small plates of food to cover the tops of glasses of drinks to keep flies out.
In Granada, you receive a tapa with each drink you order at most bars. I assumed that this would be something small and simple like a dish of olives, so I was quite surprised when my friends and I ordered our first round of drinks and each received a sandwich and french fries on the side!
We only had one night in Granada, so we decided to explore a bit by having one drink and then moving on to different bars to see as many different places as possible. We started off on Calle Elvira, a street with many different tapas bars, and ventured around that street and the surrounding area near Plaza Nueva. Most of the bars were filled with local crowds sharing tapas and watching that nights fútbol (soccer) matches.
A very common drink in Andalucía (the autonomous region where both Sevilla and Granada are located) is Tinto de Verano, a mixture of red wine and lemon or orange soda. It is very tasty and refreshing, and we had some good tinto at a number of the Granada tapas bars.
In the afternoon we also visited one of the city's many teterías (tea houses), which are inspired by the city's Muslim past, and proximity to Northern Africa. We had mint tea and some Middle Eastern pastries made of honey and nuts. The teterías are interesting to visit and relax in.
EL ALBAICÍN
El Albaicín is a very old district in Granada, dating back to the earliest days of the city, when it was a primarily Jewish, and later Muslim, neighborhood, until being reclaimed by the Catholics. It lies on a hillside opposite La Alhambra.
The area is known for its all white houses and narrow, winding, cobblestone streets. (One thing I have determined is that when visiting Southern Spain it is very important to have thick-soled shoes for the constant walking on cobblestones. Some of my shoes are already showing some wear and tear!) There are a number of miradores in this area, which are lookout points that have great views of La Alhambra and the city of Granada.
Nowadays, it has a mixture of rather well-to-do residents, as well as a large population of squatters and hippie/artisan type residents, creating an interesting contrast.
There are many churches in the neighborhood that have been built over top of mosques and synagogues. There are also some cloistered convents in the neighborhood where you can buy delicious dulces (sweets), such as cookies and muffins, which help the nuns generate income.
LA CAPILLA REAL
The last site we visited in Granada was La Capilla Real (The Royal Chapel), where the bodies of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel now lie, along with their children. The marble statues that lie over the tombs in the chapel are incredibly ornate and very beautiful. The altar in the chapel is also interesting, as well as the artifacts, such as Isabel's crown.
It was a whirlwind visit to Granada, but we were able to see a lot of different things and get to know another Spanish city. It is a very interesting city, and the Moorish influence there is very evident, more so than in Sevilla. Even for La Alhambra alone, it is definitely worth a visit for anyone who finds themselves in Andalucía!
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