Some Cultural Differences

Just as in any foreign country, I have noticed a number of cultural differences throughout my time here in Spain. I can´t believe this is my fourth week!! Some of these differences are more characteristic of Sevilla and Andalucia than of Spain in general.

Schedule and Meal Times
One of the most notable differences between Sevilla and the US is the daily schedule, especially regarding meals. When you wake up the morning, you have a small breakfast of a piece of toast and coffee or tea. Then later in the morning around 11 or noon, many people will go to a cafe and meet up with friends or coworkers for a merienda, or snack. Lunch, known here as la comida (which literally means "the food") is served between 2:30 and 4:00 p.m. It is the principle meal of the day. Dinner is not served until at least 9:00 in most households. Where I live we usually eat around 10:00, and sometimes even after 10:30. This is also a fairly heavy meal, although not as much so as la comida.

Staring
Before I got here, I had read online that people in Sevilla tend to stare, especially at people who don´t look Spanish (i.e. me). I have found this to be true, but it doesn´t bother me nearly as much as it seems to bother some of my other American friends here. The staring is not malicious at all, and it is not considered rude to stare (as it is in America). It seems to be more about curiousity than anything else. I, personally, love to stare at people, so I have taken this as a free pass to stare at people whenever I want, even if I´m not wearing sunglasses (which is the only way you can get away with it in the US...).

Sidewalks
In Sevilla, many of the streets and sidewalks are impossibly narrow. With hardly enough room for a car to comfortably pass while you walk alone on the sidewalk, things get really complicated when there are more people involved. When you are walking along the sidewalk, minding your own business, and someone starts coming the other way, it's always like a game of chicken (here or in the US). Do you go right or left? Who stays on the sidewalk and who steps down into the street? Well, in my experience thus far, I am always stepping down into the street. Any attempt to stay put on the sidewalk will cause the other group not to move, but to either run into me or just stop and wait until I move. The only exception seems to be when the other is a male or group of only males. It seems to be somewhat of a courtesy thing - a guy will move for a girl, young people are expected to move for older people. But it is a little bit strange. I've taken to walking in the street to avoid these issues entirely.

General Pace
As somewhat of a speed-walker, I was initially very annoyed by the incredibly slow speed with which people walk here. It´s more of a stroll than a walk, actually. As time has gone on, I have embraced it and slowed my pace down a bit, taking time to look at what´s around me instead of just booking it to class. At home, everyone always seems like they are in a rush, but here, hardly any one ever does. It´s kind of nice to just take your time and not worry about getting somewhere the fastest. People in Andalucia are also notoriously late, so I guess it has something to do with the aimless strolling.

Although there have been some small differences, none have affected my view of Sevilla or the sevillanos in any kind of negative way. It is just a matter of recognizing and noting the differences and moving on. So when you come to Sevilla, be prepared to eat late, walk slowly through the streets, and get stared at a little, but feel free to stare right back!

Lounging by the Guadalquivir on a sunny spring day

Around Sevilla: Real Alcazar

Yesterday I visited Sevilla's Real Alcázar, a royal palace which was originally built during Moorish rule. It is situated in the center of the city, across from the cathedral.

The Alcázar has been altered over the years since it was built and still serves as the palace for the royal family when they visit Sevilla. It is known for its gardens, and for being one of the best examples of the mudéjar style of architecture, which is a blend of Christian and Muslim influences.

After spending less than two hours there, it became one of my favorite places in the city that I have seen so far. When you are within the grounds of the Real Alcázar, it does not feel like the city is on the other side of the high stone walls.

INSIDE THE PALACE

Within the palace itself, my favorite parts were the Salón de Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors) and the Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens), which is connected to the Salón. This room served as the throne room for the king and queen, where they would receive visitors. It is a beautiful and ornate room with a gold-leaf cupola as the ceiling. At the Alcázar, much of the original coloring on the walls remains, making it very striking and impressive to see.

Directly off the Salón de Embajadores lies the Patio de las Doncellas. This patio is a central courtyard in the palace, with archways, a reflecting pool, and sunken gardens. It is evocative of many of the patios I saw in Granada, because of its similar style.

LOS JARDÍNES

The gardens of the Real Alcázar were the highlight of the visit. They are expansive, and include fountains, pools, the baths of the queen, hundreds of orange and palm trees, peacocks, and a labyrinth. There are many strongly scented plants in the gardens, and combined with the sound of the fountains, make it a very stimulating experience. It is a great place to go to and read or write, and since it is free for students, I am sure I will be returning!

Bienvenidos a Sevilla

I decided to start this blog to keep all my friends and family updated on my adventures in Europe this semester. Having just finished my first week in Sevilla and settled into my new home just steps away from the Rio Guadalquivir in Triana, I figured it was probably about time to start writing.

Getting to Sevilla was no easy task, so the beginning of the week was a bit of a whirlwind. Fog in Madrid caused my connecting flight to Sevilla to be cancelled, and gave me a nice 15 hour layover in Madrid Barajas. Although the design of its terminal 4 is very interesting and nice to look at, I hope not to spend much time there ever again. By the time I finally reached Sevilla, I was sleep-deprived and a little irritated, but relieved to have finally reached my new home.

THE CITY

Sevilla is unlike any other city that I have visited. While some cities have a tendency to blend together with their similar skyscrapers, traffic-clogged streets and cliche street performers, Sevilla has an appearance and atmosphere of its own. Most guidebooks will tell you that Sevilla is a city full of flamenco, bullfights, open plazas, tapas, orange trees, siestas, and everything Andalucian - and so far, I have found that to be true.

The style of architecture in Andalucía is unique and beautiful, and represented throughout the city. The combination of Spanish and Moorish influences is evident in many of the cities homes, palaces, and other buildings. The most striking building in Sevilla is of course La Catedral and La Giralda (Seville's cathedral and its accompanying bell tower). The immense cathedral, which is the world's third largest church, is a very impressive structure. Law states that no building can stand taller than La Giralda, which at 343 feet, prevents any type of skyscraper from being built in the city.

With a population of just over 700,000, the city is large, yet manageable. There is a buzz of activity in el centro, but even I, who have been here hardly a week, am likely to run into a few familiar faces while I walk through the city each day. The Rio Guadalquivir runs through the city, splitting the neighborhoods of Triana and Los Remedios off from the rest of the city. There are a many different barrios (neighborhoods) in Sevilla, each with their own plazas and attractions. In my first week, I have spent more time in some (such as my home barrio, Triana) than others. As the semester goes on I will post more about the specific areas I visit.



I'll be starting classes tomorrow, so as I get into a regular schedule I will have more time to post about the different things that are going on here in Sevilla.

Buenas noches!